Marie Antoinette Lolita – style inspiration and sewing patterns

OTT Classic lolita has been very popular for the last couple of years, and it looks set to continue, with both Angelic Pretty and Baby, the Stars Shine Bright producing spectacular Marie Antoinette themed designs. While rococo inspired styles already exist within OTT Classic and Hime (Princess style) lolita coords, this year they are very much the focal pieces. I wanted to explore this in more detail, and look at different styling options and sewing patterns that you can adapt yourself.

The key to this look is lots of detail, layering, and a luxurious, princess feel to the whole coord, bordering on the high-couture or even costume end of the fashion, and can look a bit fussy if the accessories are too OTT – it is best to let the dress speak for itself, using accessories to balance out the coord. The fabric used is often luxurious, for example satins, brocades and other textured, luxe materials, as well as chiffon and lace. Colours used are two-tone pastels such as pink, mint, lavender and cream, and gold accents.

The design includes rows of tiered, gathered lace or chiffon, including gathered lace and bows on the sleeves, bodice, and skirt. Design styles include an over-jacket or long “V” corset, sometimes with ribbon lacing on front, and open front A-line skirts showing layers of ruffled chiffon or lace, sometimes with overlaying lace bustle skirts. Sleeves have lots of lace or layered lace/chiffon fabric, with a bow at the elbow, while necklines are usually open round or square, to show off a statement pearl necklace. Details include bows, artificial flowers, beading, lace or braiding on open edges and seams. Bodices are cut in the “princess seam” style and often have a large statement bow near the top, followed by 3-4 smaller, organza ribbon bows.

Cotton is still used for prints, which feature elements of rococo or fairytale palace life: bows, gold frames, macarons/cake, roses, royal carriages, Marie Antoinette, four-poster beds and chandeliers.

Blouses are made with chiffon or silk satin, and mirror the style of OPs: elbow length princess sleeves with bows on elbows, open round or square neck with ruffle edging.

Accessories include:

large canotiers with lace side veil, feathers and faux flowers

lace or feather fans, decorated with organza ribbons

lace tights

heeled pumps with a bow in contrasting colour

large wrist cuffs, lace or satin wrist length gloves

pearl jewellery

parasols

bonnets decorated with lace, feathers and faux flowers

feathers and pompoms

The key to hair and makeup is to keep it fairly simple, with the following hairstyles as ideas:

Balance out a large hair accessory with a wavy side ponytail 

A bonnet and flowers or large hair bow looks good with wavy pigtails and small bow clips

A double flower clip with organza ribbon and feathers works well with a Hime-style bun and wavy pigtails, or a simple short bob. Of course, you could always go for a full on powdered Marie Antoinette wig with feathers, roses, ribbon hair accessories – why not even put a swan on your head?

Makeup includes pink blush eye on the cheeks, pink lips and bold eyes, taking inspiration from portraits of Marie Antoinette.

I have combed through my pattern books and found several coords and patterns for inspiration! Most of them need a little adaption to really bring it into the Marie Antoinette style. Otome No Sewing vol. 6 and 8 in particular have some gems. This whole Cinderella coord from book 6 just needs a little more embellishment or nicer fabrics.

Again, the cinderella-style dress from book 8 just needs a little more attention to detail, while the coral -coloured OP perhaps needs some work on the sleeves. The vest and overskirt in the Snow White coord in book 5 could be made in matching fabric, worn over a ruffled tiered skirt and paired with a princess blouse, or you could make the overskirt in organza as shown here as a separate accessory. In fact, a girl in one of the lolita sewing groups on Facebook is making the blue dress pictured below in a beautiful pink and white rose print, with chiffon sleeves – I can't wait to see the final result.

Other OPs include item 33 from book 2, and item 37 from book 4

Other sewing patterns include a Rosa Bianca JSK from GLB vol 47, this princess blouse from Otome No Sewing book 4, and a skirt from GLB vol 37. I am yet to own these GLBs and now I really want to track them down!

I found lots of accessories in these books that could be used, from flower hair accessories to bonnets, headbows to wristcuffs.

Left to right, top to bottom:
Otome no Sewing vol 6, vol 1, vol1, vol 8;
Otome no Sewing vol 5, GLB 40, 41, 42;

Otome no Sewing vol 1, vol 2, vol 6, vol 8;

Otome no Sewing vol 1, vol 3, vol 4, vol 8.

What do you think about the Marie Antoinette trend? Do you think it's here to stay, or just coincidence that Baby and AP have both put out these inspired looks? While it may just be a continuation of OTT classic, it does look a lot more princessy to me, and I'd love to have a go at making one of the OPs here.